We’ve officially entered the next generation of sun protection. The question of what SPF you should choose has been replaced by the question of whether you should buy chemical or organic sunscreen. To make that choice, you need to know what the difference is, and whether one may be better than the other.

To understand the difference, UVA rays are responsible for “A”ging; UVB are responsible for “B”urning. UVA rays damage the skin’s collagen and elastin, which are needed to keep skin looking young; UVB rays burn the skin and are the main cause of skin cancer.

Chemical Protection
Any sunscreen containing avobenzone, oxybenzone or octocrylene are chemical sunscreens.

Octocrylene is part of the cinnamate group of chemicals. Cinnamates have both UVA-and UVB-absorbing ingredients, which is how they protect the skin from the sun’s harmful rays (they absorb them, so your skin does not.) Chemical sunscreens also contain different benzophenones, such as avobenzone, which also absorb UVA and UVB rays.

The skin actually soaks up chemical sunscreens, which is a key difference between the chemical and organic sun-protection product categories. Because octocrylene is absorbed into the skin, it has been shown in some studies to promote the generation of potentially harmful free radicals. The health implications remain unclear, but some experts have raised concerns that warrant further research.

Going Chemical-Free
Organic, or physical, sun-protection products are called sun blocks, as opposed to sunscreens. They generally contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which are not absorbed into the skin, but instead remain on top of the skin and act as UVA/UVB deflectors.

Zinc oxide is the preferred ingredient, because it blocks more UV radiation. While physical products are more effective sun blockers, the downside is that many of them tend to leave a white film on the skin. However, adding makeup colors to the base products can make it into a wonderful makeup foundation that not only looks good, but also protects the skin from harmful rays.

While chemical sunscreens offer both UVA and UVB protection, there’s also the possible generation of harmful free radicals. Organic sunscreens offer a broader protection from UVA/UVB rays, but depending on the formulation, could leave you covered in an unattractive white film that could also be slightly uncomfortable.

Still can’t decide? Whether you choose a chemical or all-natural product, the bottom line is, either one is better than no protection at all.

Forever Filler:
If you could replace lost volume forever, would you?
First there was collagen, which required a pre-procedure allergy test and lasted three months at best. Then came the hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers Restylane® (Medicis) and Juvederm (Allergan®). No allergy testing required, and results last about a year. And, fillers continue to evolve. The latest development? Permanent fillers.

Long-term correction
According to Dr. Joseph Niamtu, III, a board-certified facial plastic cosmetic surgeon in Richmond, VA, the face is “dynamic,” and skin changes over time, which means that regardless of how “permanent” the product itself might be, you’ll need to have some touch-up work done down the road.

So, which fillers are considered permanent? These include silicone, Artefill® and Sculptra Aesthetic®. Artefill® may last forever, but as the face changes over time, Artefill® can move (sag) with the aging face and require correction or repositioning. Sculptra Aesthetic®, on the other hand, may last for years, but the product eventually goes away.

Tried and True
Sometimes the tried and true is a better (in other other words, safer) option, especially Dr. Niamtu says, if it’s your first time venturing into filler territory. “HA fillers are still popular for a reason,” he says. “What’s powerful about HAs is that you can reverse them. In other words, if you don’t like your results, it’s very easy to make them go away with a syringe. Permanent fillers require a scalpel.”

At some point in her 40s or 50s, every woman sees a distressing change in her skin brought on by hormonal deficits associated with menopause. Menopausal aging – otherwise known as hormonal or intrinsic aging - is the result of biochemical changes that occur as estrogen depletes.

Effects of Hormonal Aging
The effects of menopause on the skin can vary, and every woman’s experience with symptoms is different. Externally, menopause can cause facial hair growth; dry dull skin; changes in texture and pore size; and additional lines and wrinkles due to a decrease in collagen, and elastin. Some women begin to see the resulting irregular pigmentation or mottling. For many, this discoloration is more distressing than wrinkles or sagging.

Skincare Key Ingredients for Renewal
The products you select to treat hormonal aging should contain ingredients in the following categories:

Phytoestrogens. These can help stimulate collagen production, minimize facial hair, encourage hydration and prevent hormonal breakouts. They can be combined with retinoids, peptides and salicylic acid to produce a complete arsenal against hormonal skin damage. Phytoestrogens possess estrogen-like qualities. They’re commonly found in clover flower, soy, wild yam and iris extracts.

Peptides. Formed of amino acid – the raw materials of skin protein – these bulky molecules signal cells to execute specific functions, and help prevent wrinkles caused by muscle contractions – much like BOTOX® Cosmetic. To combat irregular pigmentation, look for a new peptide called oliogopeptide-34.

Retinoids. Vitamin A (in the form of retinol, retinyl palmitate or retinoic acid) improves skin elasticity, retexturizes and can actually help reverse photodamage and enhance new cell growth. Vitamin A resurfaces and rejuvenates the skin, and has even been shown to stimulate new collagen production. Retin-A, a form of Vitamin A, is often prescribed by doctors to exfoliate and rejuvenate the skin.

Essential Treatments
Without adequate care, skin after menopause will continue to degenerate. Estimates
have indicated that it loses up to 30% of its collagen in the first five years after
menopause. Regular facial treatments can reinforce the effectiveness of home-care
regimens.

Start with Nutritional Counseling. Eat fruits and vegetables and avoid sugar, dairy, and all processed or refined carbohydrates and fasts. Also, take supplements rich in vitamins, minerals and fatty acids. They help skin regulate natural moisture factors and combat free-radical damage.

Consider treatments to stimulate cell turnover. IPL treatments can help rejuvenate the skin by stimulating collagen production without drying. Chemical Peels are one of the best ways to address postmenopausal skin as a two-part strategy: professional peels and a proper homecare regimen.

Regular facials are known to combat dryness and stimulate circulation in all skin types. They reduce stress – another component of hormonal aging. Energizing massage
can also help increase blood flow and improve circulation.

The latest skincare formulations can help curb side effects and reveal your true beauty.
The Bukachevsky Center has a full array of treatments and skincare products to make your transition through menopause easier. •